STIR THE POTS

Feed me!!

I'm on my last couple day's at home before leaving for Europe, so I had to get my starters in my fridge fed before I go  away.Even though I am sure to bake while on the continent and in Wales where I will join some other like minded bakers, I always have some trepidation when leaving my levain without a good dose of food before I neglect them and it's not easy to resist the temptation to bake once they are fed! Just  when the levain is so full of holes,fluffy like a cloud and ready to burst from the container, to hell with it! So I make a small loaf, my version of  Pugliese, adapted for sourdough from Jim Lahey's recipe on Martha Stewart episode! I changed the levain to a stiffer version with more levain in the initial feed, this gave a good boost as I didn't add  yeast  for the final dough!  while I varied the bulk ferment to about 9 or ten hours roughly; I sort of used the no knead idea in principle but kneaded minimally, I used the mixing machine and gave three folds every thirty minutes! With the principle method of a long ferment a bit less then what the no knead Jim method was, 12 hours? The dough didn't over proof as it is so hot here this week and I had the air conditioner blasting! I then shaped and rose for final proofing about 1 1/2 hours and straight into the hot oven with lots of steam for about 45 minutes!
So if I happen to be a little slow on posting, it's because I am researching and resting!! See you on the other side! Happy cooking!

My Fridge

Recently there was a wave of in depth fridge reports by some food bloggers, David Lebowitz, Chez Pim and I am sure more! I didn't get on the gravy train in the beginning so I jumped aboard and thought before heading across the pond (trip to Europe!)I would let everyone glance and see what I have stored in this space;albeit limited as my New York apartment galley kitchen has me squished between the sink and the refrigerator! This being my last week, I started a nice Miche loaf for some good old home baked bread to smother with some tasty ham from my buddy Johnny of Sunnyside Meat Market,and my wife so caring got some delicious cheese at Zabars! This decadent gooey cheese, Fromage de Clarine??? Orgasmic! As a foot note I purchased some fantastic beers from this superior supermarket on Queens Boulevard, the Russian owner and I discussed the differences of cider from Ireland, England, America and France! This guy, which I will also post about later has an incredible selection of beers, I fancied some weizen which was a Julius Echter Wurzburger and a bottle of this white ale from Hitachino, oye!
So back to the fridge! I have some of the usual condiments need to smother bread, or some yogurt for breakfast, it's not always full especially when I work 24-7 in a kitchen! The important things like levains are  in the back shelves hidden from the wife, she hates clutter! It's funny when I see people shopping or gossip with my mother about Americans horrible eating patterns! Well I am in the hot seat now, introducing my fridge! There is some olive paste, butter (French of course!), some serious organic bacon, sausages and ham from Johnny, and well you take a look!

Nha Trang

Today was an excruciatingly hot day in the city and after spending several hours watching the Tour de France coverage of the exciting alpine stages! I was finally forced out of my comatose state in front of the boob tube and  found myself heading down town, reminded that it was either shop for food to cook later or have lunch at Nha Trang; I thought the better deal would be lunch in Chinatown!
Ever since I can remember going out to Chinatown with my brother we always ate Vietnamese food. There was my first memory of eating squab with chin jiew sauce; a gourmand friend crunching on the heads of this delicious birds and the wonderful lady who spoke French with my brother at this now long gone gem of a restaurant that unfortunately burned down, known only by it's sign as #1 restaurant was my first taste and not the last!
From this first exposure  my brother quickly found another local visited only by "locals!" This was the early 80's when food was still in it's baby steps on it's way to becoming a topic of bloggers or hot chefs, aren't they always hot?
The new restaurant was Pho Pasteur, they had the best chef as far as we could see in the realm of Vietnamese food in New York at that time, as time passed though and my brother went off to live on the west coast there was a change in the kitchen!!The chef had packed her bags along with her husband to open less then a doorstep away to establish there new restaurant, Nha Trang!
87 Baxter is where you will find it just off of Canal Street. Be aware that Sundays are usually full with families, perhaps not as much in summer during beach weather as we found today! Our usual waiter was there, always prodding us to order more but we knew our limit, admittedly I would of asked for frog legs cooked in French butter but I knew barbecued fish would suffice with steamed rice, water spinach and a salad with fried shallots! The menu is extensive and you will find some fabulous tasting soups like pho, or spring rolls that are delicious!

Nha Trang Restaurant

                             87 Baxter St
                             New York, NY 10013-4463

Tiroler Landbrot

My father went to the dolomites to paint once, I have been to the alps...what does that have to do with Tiroler Landbrot? Nothing, but I am in search of the rye breads of Germany where I was born, those thick cut loaves, grain filled,sauerteig built, with a grassy rye taste that welcome any nice cured ham and butter. Ever in the pursuit of finding that perfect loaf that is rye I have stumbled along the way with what could be called bricks rather than bread!

Following advice of bakers and trying to translate the mysterious German bread terms on bread forums, I succeeded finally,I think?  At least taste wise I would say?

Tiroler Landbrot, a tasty tight crumbed loaf that isn't a brick, it's moist and has a mellow flavor palate with just a hint of sauer!

You know even the slashes on the loaf looks make it look like the mountains of the Tirol region! Or it could be mistaken for a boulder? At least my loaves do?

Sachet=11grams, or 5 if your me...

It's the day after the fourth of July and I am at work waiting a VIP party,that's about all we had aside from a couple tables at lunch. Surfing the net after staring at a box of milk chocolate for what seemed like hours I search for some chocolate recipes on various chocolate companies sites in hopes of finding something easy to make for a kitchen snack or coffee break for the staff!The usual complicated time consuming gateaux's and mousse abound and I just happen on to a biscuit Breton recipe. you know those delicious buttery cookies filled with chocolate chips, the kind you devour in seconds and regret later!

So I read through the simple recipe and find on the list of ingredients as the leavening agent; sachet de levure chimique!!!(that is baking powder to you and me!) What is a paquet of poudre de chemique weigh? I google the words French baking powder and voila I found just what I needed! Only problem I used only 5 grams, guessing that with only a minimal amount of flour you wouldn't need so much leavening, instead of the 11grams in the usual package! The cookies are baked and golden brown around the edges, flecked with both milk and dark chocolate chips. Back to my desk while the recently baked cookies cool while I  do some paper work. When I return to the kitchen I find empty spaces where cookies lay before, I guess 5 or 11grams didn't make that much difference, they are addictive!

Petit biscuit Breton (based on Valrhona recipe)-5grams from pacquet(my touch)

5 egg yolks

160grams sugar

220grams Flour (I used A.P.)

1 paquet de levure chimique (baking powder) I used 5grams and they were swell go for 11 and tell me what gives?

150grams softened butter

120grams milk chocolate chips

120grams dark chocolate chips

Sift dry ingredients

Whisk together egg yolks and sugar to ribbon stage (whitened and fluffy)

Add buter, dry ingredients,and chips and mix in till combined. Shape into a cylinder shape about 1.5 inches and wrap in plastic wrap. Freeze until ready to bake.

300 F oven  Cut cookies about 3/8 inch thick and place on parchment covered sheet pan and bake for 20 minutes. Cool on rack and store in air tight container.