Buckwheat baguettes are not new for me, but recently I found a formula on a Facebook bread group whose highly hydrated dough, speckled with olives, looked lovely. I had to give it a go! Baguettes are always being refashioned by individual bakers, from sourdough to hybridized and poolish.
Buckwheat lacking gluten is just about 10 percent total. And my whole ground gave the dough a special looking crust and crumb. I liked the buckwheat flavor. And being a straight dough, it didn't take much time to put together. In sum, it was really great!
Add salt at beginning,70% water,(10% buckwheat, 80% wheat) mix 2mn in 1st speed,add 4g dry yeast, again 2 mn in 1st speed then 1mn in 2nd speed. Return to 1st speed and add slowly 10%water Once water is absorbed,mix 1mn in 2nd speed
Put it in box during 30mn,(bulk ferment)
Give a fold then, 1 hours proof in box Divid then wait 10mn before shaping Once shaping is done, wait 15mn then put in oven 265/245 Celsius
The baguette with poolish is a pre-fermented dough with a bit of malt. It also has longer fermentation then the baguette tradition, which just uses commercial yeast.The malt adds a bit more color to the crusts, as well as converts the starches to sugar that feed the yeast. Malt is made by sprouting barley. Then it's dried and ground to a powder, (diastatic malt).
Baguettes made with levain are on my menu for my microbakery, though quite a small amount ordered compared to sweet breads, I still make an added one for me, my pain quotidien. By lucky chance meeting boulanger and patissiere Gregoire Michaud in New York recently, I queried him about my formula I was working on. He'd shown me photo's of his amazing baguette au levain, so I was inspired. When I looked on his site I noticed he tried several methods of fermentation time with and without added yeast in his tests. Here is what I got the other day, not shabby but still tweaking!
Sometimes it's better to be behind a trend, especially when it's something to do with food. Let other people do the tasting and wait for you and your taste buds to catch up! Other times, well, don't walk for it, run! Case in point. While walking through Grand Central Market recently, I passed Murray's cheese's new charcuterie department. Amongst the salsicce, I saw nduja. Yes nduja, that Calabrian soft salami that is the rage in the salumi circles.
According to the folks at Murray's, this particular version of nduja (above) is from Boccalone and pronounced "en doo ya." A waiter at work who is from Calabria shrugged when I mentioned this delicacy from his native land. Apparently it's less a specialty in southern Italy than a regular staple. Regardless, a shout out to these guys who make such fine pig products.
This recent walk around Grand Central Market reminded me of my visit to San Francisco's Ferry Market, a place I visited while attending bread school. I still remember my baguettes with their fierce fennel pollen flavored salami, a perfect casse croûte for my walks to class. Hoooha!
Nduja is made with the head of the pork minus the cheeks, which are saved to make guanciale. A distant cousin to the French Andouille, the nduja is packed in the lower intestine of its own tripe lining. My first tasting done, I find this spreadable salami heady spicy and ready for some more tasting!
Nudja has that sort mystical aura, difficult to find and legendary among some foodies. Unless you're Calabrian or have visited that part of the "Toe " of Italy, or come upon this delicacy by sheer luck. You might think it were spam (gone funky), or even musty looking botargo. No, it's just a for the strong-hearted, a salami that spreads a fiery new dimension, especially compared to the standard hard salami that most of us know. Nudge, nudge.. go get some!
Susan of WildYeast asked for some baguettes, so here, a version of Bouley bakery's mini baguette paysanne. It's a bakery where I worked one summer. This version of their baguette is completely 100% levain and are made to an unorthodox size to fit my home oven, as I don't think the deck ovens at SFBI would fit through any doorway in my building or make the 5 flights up to my apartment!
I have already described my classes at the San Francisco Bread Institute. You can also find my friends Susan, MC and Shiao-Ping talking about their own classes in great length on each of their blogs. I got a lot of practice in all aspects of baguettery, as well as some quality human contact with people all interested in the same thing, baking bread.
Baguettes are the most commonly-known French bread. It's familiar but isn't easy to bake. Even with the basic ingredients of flour, water, yeast and salt, it's just not simple! Variables such as water temperature, friction factor, percentages, and any principles of baking contribute to make baguettes a challenge.
Getting it right has got to be like the law of averages, no? Not really. It's more like paying close attention to detail; fermentation, pre-shaping, shaping, cuts, slashing, practice and repetition. But once achieved, (the mantra according to SFBI master baker Michel Suas), you can bake anything!
With great thanks to MIchel, Safa Hamzé and all the staff, I present you with the baguette!