STIR THE POTS

Vincent the baker

Every so often perusing the net I stumble on to a cool baking site that I forget to bookmark for a later look. Recently though my friend David Aplin was showing off his really awesome spelt loaf, cut like a pro, clearly a work of love!  When queried by Susan, the other incredible baker from Wild Yeast, David divulged that he had borrowed the idea from another baker, Vincent Talleu, who he said was making some awesome bread. I quickly copied and pasted the link David provided which took me to his photo album of gloriously displayed  loaves of bread.

Vincent's photo's are a veritable story of a baker in love with his craft. His breads are featured along with various pictures of his baking school days, as well as home baking with his girlfriend. For me, every loaf is an inspiration. As are his Youtube videos, in which he and his work mates (covered in flour) wield peels laden with dough shapes  ready to become crusty loaves

Vincent even gives instruction on how to slash a loaf of bread before putting it into the heat of an oven. His dexterity is made obvious as he slashes baguette's, making it look so easy. Then there is his method for folding, cutting and finishing the now infamous ciabatta.  Simple yet precise, it is really instructional as well as just fun to watch, "init?"

One other note of interest that caught my attention was Jean-Baptiste Talleu, Vincent’s brother who disappeared in India while on a world cycling tour. It reminded me of my own brother and me, also avid cyclists. Here's hoping for the best for Vincent and his family for a safe return of his brother. Vincent was kind enough to respond to my e-mail about his album of bread, which is at the heart of the baker, to share.

Merci Vincent!

The cup, no not soccer, bread of course!

My co-producer sent me this video regarding the Coupe de Monde Boulanger, go USA!

La France a gagné!

 

John Downes

  John Downes is by far one of the most interesting bread bakers or should I say human beings I have talked to in a long time...no ever! I first heard about him from my friend Graham Prichard of the ABA, and was intrigued that I hadn't heard of his book The Natural Tucker. Foremost  that he is considered the modern godfather of sourdough renaissance in Australia. Like a karmic mantra my copy of the book arrived the same day of the interview and I tried to absorb as much in a short window to catch some sort of insight. John not only  is modern philosopher, but ancient baker and an articulate speaker. He is able to  convey and deliver the message that I feel are important in this time of history, with human, environmental changes effecting our mind, spirit and diet. My questions were answered especially those of the fermented kind! You wouldn't think of bread as intellectual subject till you speak with John, but you realize it's human connection from it's mysterious appearance when it was first discovered in Egypt. Maybe because so many people just eat it without thinking about it's process or how it relates to our core human value system, or from grain to mill, to baker and finally the table, bread is the story of humans. Some think John is a sourdough purist, nothing wrong with the real thing?

(*While listening you may hear an echo on my voice, technological glitch on my part! I decided with John agreeing that the conversation was too good to lose so I kept what we had and edited as best we could!)

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Maggie Glezer

Maggie Glezer is someone I respect, she takes time to think of the process of baking bread, from bakers percent, to hydration, crunching the numbers to identifying the science of grains, not a lazy baker like me. Meticulously explaining the steps in baking all the while unveiling the magic that is bread, the staff of life.  Maggie went into the craft to find out what makes bakers and bread tick in her book Artisan baking in America. Blessing of bread is a testament to traditions of Jewish bakers sadly a tradition that is being lost. Her ideas are many and she hasn't started a new book yet, but I am sure when it comes out it will be on my shelf!

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Dan Leader

When I got my copy recently of Dan Leaders book Local Breads, it reminded me of how it was his first book with the namesake of his bakery Bread Alone that had inspired me to learn how to make sourdough breads. Later on I actually took a nine-month course at the FCI where Dan had set up the curriculum for the schools bread program. So this past Saturday as I furiously pedaled from my home in Queens to Prospect park in  Brooklyn where we agreed to meet for an interview I tried putting some intelligent questions through my head that would make some sense! Just making time at the appointed hour I was to meet Dan I got off my saddle and made for the Bread Alone stand full of bread and people waiting in line to buy loaves. Dan was standing there, I recognized him from pictures from his book, "hey Dan, umm hello ", he didn't hear me, it was the street noise ,drilling in the street and so many peoples voices in the market. He  just happened to turn around  as my hand was outstretched to meet his, "hi I'm Jeremy, Jeremy Shapiro, from stirthepots ?" Dan said hello and started by saying what a beautiful day it was, he then asked me about my blog and what made me talk about bread! This interview was by far I think my favorite, the reason being that Dan I think of all the bakers I have spoken with really loves baking, and yet he isn't going to dissuade you from entertaining the idea of starting a bakery, no, instead he encourages and warns you to  make sure you know what your getting into first, It’s hard work!

This is information regarding Dan's work in South Africa check it out!

Schaü backerei, show me your bakery man!

"Road trip!"   My sister one evening had suggested that I would perhaps like to see a schaü backerei in Emmental as well a Schaü kaserei too? Sure, why not! We headed off in the morning, no breakfast or coffee and with a growling stomachs to boot, we made our way along the picturesque view of the Alps on our left and the Jura mountains to our right. We then headed towards the Bernese region and turned off the road where road sign indicated Emmental.
I had no idea where or what to expect on this trip, a Disneyland for bakers? So as we passed the old houses with huge roofs, my mind was thinking only of what I would order, was I hungry, yes! We finally arrived in the town of Zollbruck, in front was an old building with the typical Bernese roof,and to the right a huge modern building. Aeschlimann schaübackerei!

Signs for the special breads and müesli were advertised in front of the shop, as we made for the sparkling counter covered with the different pastries and shelves laden with different breads. My nephews and nieces already knew what they wanted, I made a selection and asked for a coffee. We went up some stairs  to have a seat and I started to wonder why it was a show bakery when in fact I couldn't see the bakers? Just then I saw a huge  window that  gave an overview of what was a huge bakery complex,with a huge oven, tables and mixers. As the bakers busily made there way around the bakery and smiling too, I popped out my camera and started to snap. My sister said the owners wife had told her the bread baking was just about over and now it was pastry production. "No matter," I said, as long as I can see what is going on, snap!
Our coffee and pastries arrived and we dug in, my brother in-law had taken my strong coffee, and I got a milky cappuccino sort of thing with a strange spoon, machts nix! The pastries were a definite Swiss style, the kids got some strange green and chocolate sort of pastry and some pastry horn filled with cream, I can't even recall what I had as I was transfixed on the whole photo shoot! Below the bakers were preparing cookies and some were loading breads into the ovens, my sister pointed out the zopf bread,(braided loaf)  cooling on racks,a partybrot,another baker making braided Russian filled sweet nut bread," I'm in heaven!"
We were getting ready to go as the kids were growing a bit restless, a playground would be a better place to spend some time rather than a bakery! The owners wife was talking to my sister,she introduced me telling her I was a baker,with a website, so she went back down stairs and her husband appeared offering me a tour inside the bakery. Cool!
The owner a young Herr Aeschlimann, took me through the doors behind the counter downstairs and as the glass doors slided open I felt like Charlie in Willy Wonka. The familiar smell of yeasty goodies wafted through my nose! As we made our way passed the oven I had just seen, he suggested we first look at the old bakery next door to get a feel of the difference of what was a 5th generation business of the very traditional type to what it is today. The low ceiling and old counters remained in the now ghost like store, a small room was where the breads and confections were once prepared. Herr Aeschlimann told me he had spent a considerable amount of Swiss Francs on building his new facility,2.3 million actually! He shrugged it off in a Bernese fashion saying in another ten years he would have it payed off, no problem! We went back to the new bakery where he showed me various sheeting machines that were computerized and automated. As we passed two of  his bakers were l hand forming loaves, he informed them I had a website and I snapped some shots.
He took me to the storage area and the silos where he kept various flours, I asked him about rye flour and he explained that this region primarily used wheat and spelt, rye was more common in the mountainous Valais French speaking region. We went into a really cold refrigeration room where loaves of bread were par cooked, he explained that these breads could be re-baked or finished, that was why I wondered at the color when it seemed they had been taken out quite early. We passed the pastry section and I thanked Herr Aeschlimann again for the tour, I hope to visit again, maybe I can come and learn some Swiss baking here on my next trip!

Jim Lahey

Today I rushed from work for an interview with one of New York's baking icons, Jim Lahey of Sullivan Street Bakery. I wait and wait; his assistant apologizes and tells me he is tied up in another interview. So I sit down and the first thing that hits me are the bread smells, the sign of the Italian sounding names of pizza di fungi, filone, Puligese, all familiar from the former entity in Soho now relocated to it's current incarnation on a  non-descript street in Hell's Kitchen though with no less a crowd who enjoy the goods! There’s a lady who is shipping some dark Filone in a postal box, a girl buys three Italianized chocolate brownies, the guy across from me wolfs down my own favorite the patate pizza, an onion smothered, Yukon gold potato layered and speckled with rosemary on a thin crisp dough, Italian knish?
So I start to investigate the premises it's a carbon copy of the  former bakery downtown, like it had fallen from the sky onto the very spot! My attention is drawn by an article on the factional toll on Iraqi bakers, something I have read a lot about, seems they, (the bakers) get all the shit sandwiches and have to take a bite! ("Full metal jacket," Joker man!)
Restless and thinking of my starters at home, I try to prepare my tools and questions, take a deep breath, clear throat, sit up straight…Controversy starts now!
No knead to ask why, Jim Lahey reads the riot act, dismisses fallacies,lays waist to my conventional baking theories learned at school, steps on some toes, ok now I am worried!

Listen and see what you think? I am trying the loaf his way, see if I can get it right this time? I am a lazy baker!

* So as not to defame anyone that may have been mentioned during this interview I seriously edited some controversial statements, though freedom of speech is a priority and right on my list of important isms! I still felt it was necessary to remove some of Jim's statements. To be fair to Jim I turned on the microphone even before we really got into the true heart of conversation, no knead bread and told him there would be some editing! As I was nervous and felt I needed to contact someone mentioned, I contacted Dan Lepard, e=mailing is one of the worst way's to talk to someone,apologize's are sent to both parties through me, sorry!

Also I wish to post and e-mail which Dan Lepard, who I contacted to forewarn, asked me to post and I will out of fairness, and also  hope  that Jim and He will speak about the good things,like bread!

From: Jim Lahey [mailto:jim@sullivanstreetbakery.com]

Sent: 07 November 2006 03:54

To: webmaster@danlepard.com

Subject: Dear Dan

Could you please get your info on Sullivan street/ exeter street correct Exeter street is not an offshoot simply another imitator.

Just read your book thought it was quite good. Thanks best, Jim Lahey

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Michael London

Michael London is more than just a baker, he is a schmoozer and doorman at least that is what he calls   himself when you meet him at his shop in Saratoga Springs NY. I like to think of him as sort of Voltaire or some other literary enlightened man with a touch of Brooklynese thrown into the mix. I never imagined finding as good a product as his various confections in so far away place, that I may say rival or even better some of the best shops in the city. As for his ability to make one understand the quality it’s a mix of his early hippie day’s baking in the village and his memory of his Nana's breads. Michael is not only a fine baker as he is a knowledgeable man that shares his views on slowing down the process of making bread. By understanding that it is a living culture in itself and that we are just tending and shaping it in it’s natural form. I surely will make the trek again, not just for the croissants but the good company and great hosts both Michael, his Wife Wendy and son Max were on my visit, thanks Michael!  This is part 1 of the interview or conversation, I hope to speak and learn a lot more from Michael, he is a walking encyclopedia!

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Craig Ponsford

Ask this guy a question and he will surely answer it, why? Craig Ponsford is the chairman of the BBGA and owner of his own successful  bakery located in Sonoma California. As coach and team player in the winning teams who compete at the Olympic level of baking in France the heart of anything bread he has won twice! Without a doubt a really nice guy he gave me some time for a chat and that is saying a lot when he is so busy! He gives me incite on the training, the reason we don't have the same culture of bread, but why we excel or at least he does! Baking brotherhood is a term which I think describes the way Craig will cross borders to help other teams but as well to gain experience and strengthen the bond.

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Steve Sullivan

Steve Sullivan of Acme Bread Co.  started making loaves of bread in his dorm room at college. While he visited Europe he carried a  copy of Elizabeth David's "English Bread & Yeast Cookery." His taste for bread was inspired by his travels and it was cheap to eat. While attending college  he worked at Alice Waters Chez Panisse, first as a busboy and dishwasher then finally as the boulanger.
An icon in the American renaissance of "artisan" bread baking Steve shares his view with this home baker from the bench to even his baking with Julia Child.If your looking for an honest loaf with some history, check out Steve Sullivan at Acme Bread Co.!

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