
Visiting Ecuador, I have been craving a piece of decent bread. All I have found here are pillows of soft white dough,
yeasted, slightly sweet, shaped into odd looking but familiar pseudo-crescent
rolls. Other than that there's some yellowish colored bread, or even some neon pink glazed sweet
breads carted on window paned boxes mounted on bicycles with parasols with the
peddlers literally pedaling their goods.
Out of sheer bread withdrawal, I decided to
attempt something that could be recognized as handmade, with some taste
of wheat
and perhaps some additional flavor profile. Say, wheat tortillas. I
didn’t have sourdough in mind, and for that matter didn't even have any
yeast. Instead I
relied soley on flour, water, salt and the flavor enhancer (and really
fantastic
ingredient) manteca de cerdo. Otherwise known as lard! The other thing I
lacked was a rolling pin, so relied on Dan Lepard's innovative method
of a wine bottle.Yes, they do make wine
here, but that is another story. I started the dough using the ratio
technique. Without Michael Ruhlman’s ratio book in hand, I used only my
sense and
experience to guide me; as the only scale we have available is huge and
is used to
weigh fish and vegetables. Rudimentary skill was at its most primeval
stages.I rubbed the lard into the dough, added salt and eyeballed
the water to the feel of how the dough was coming along, as I hadn’t previously used flour
here.

Even with the humidity, the
dough was perfect. I made up some tortillas which puffed up and tasted
great. Whether plain or with cheese, tomatoes and chilies for an ad hoc
quesadilla, it worked, to the
amazement of the cooks who had never had this style of tortilla. One of
the
cooks asked me if I knew how to make empanadas and if this dough would
work. Having never considered the idea of tortilla dough
being multi-purpose, I supposed that it could, and why not try? So I
made little golf ball sized dough, patted them out flat
with my hand, and proceeded to fill them with shrimp. Then we made some
cheese
with herbs. Our medium of cooking was in lard, fried things are good,
especially in lard.
Tortilla and Empanada Dough
2 Cups of flour
1 tsp of salt
4Tbsp of lard
Water, add till you get a malleable dough.
Rub in the lard with the flour and salt, add in water till
you have a manageable dough, mix but don’t over knead dough. (Think short crust
or pie dough.)
Rest at least 20 minutes covered with a towel. Divide into
golf ball size or make larger empanada’s if so inclined.
Roll into a circle for Tortillas, about 8 inches round. To
cook tortillas use a round cast iron skillet or a flat Teflon pan and cook over
medium high heat on both sides till puffy and blistered, about 1 minute for
each side.

For empanadas, roll out dough about a quarter inch thick or
pat dough with flat of your hand to create a oval shaped piece of dough. Fill
the center of the dough with whatever filling you choose, about a tablespoon of
filling depending how big you made the piece of dough. Pinch sides of dough to
seal. Crimp with a fork or pleat edges with fingers.
Fry in a high sided pot or fryer till golden brown 350 F.
Recent Comments