Ever since my interest in baking bread caught fever, I have managed to fenagle formulas from bakers worldwide. Sometimes the formulas take years to actually get right at home. Other times I hit it immediately.
One baker has helped me out in particular, someone who goes by the pseudonym Le Globe trotteur. I met Le Globe Trotteur on Facebook. He's based in Barcelona. He was kind enough to give me a formula for his "walnut red wine bread," which I'd had parked for awhile in my files. Finally trying it for clients of my micro bakery, I managed to get it right the first time, and ended up keeping a loaf for myself.
Le Globe Trotteur's red wine walnut bread
700g levain (60%hydrated
Walnut red wine bread
Walnut 800g and red wine 600gr
White flour, t 65 1.600kg
With the white flour put your maceration add 600cl more of water
Mix it 5 min and let it rest at least 45 min. (Autolyse)
If you use Levain liquide better to get only 500g of water
because the sugars will work and dilated strongly so i recommend to use hard
sourdough for this product 700g (60%)
You can try both anyway.
Well after your Autolyse introduce your levain(Whatever it
is)2g of yeast and let it in first velocity (speed) during 3 min
After your 3 minutes add the salt,40g and let it mix in
first velocity (speed) 12min
When you've got the dough ready (mixed) let it proof 1hour in a bowl with a
bit of oil (no flour)
Give it a rabat (fold), proof one more hour.
So after your rabat (fold) and after two hours 2 hours, get it out from your bowl and weigh it to whatever weight you want, pre-shape, and let it
rest 30 40 minutes, the give it the final shape. Give it a three hour proof,(if not
If your retard the dough, do exactly the same process to the folding letting it proof hour more after it's shaped, then into the
fridge. Next day take the dough out of the fridge divide it let it rest 40 minutes. shape and let
it proof, then into the oven around 250 Celcius or 485 Farenheit.
Rye red wine crust (Optional)
Mix this paste the day before. Smear the paste on proofed loaves, and bake. Try some and leave one with and one without to decide which is your favorite one. Let it cool 2 hours et voila bonne!
Housed on the edge of the Old Montreal, it's an awe inspiring setting that delivers equal emotion in terms of food. A focus of the owners is to highlight Canadian products in terms of both food and wine.
Chef Derek Dammann
Upon arriving with a party that included Montreal chef Michele Forgione, along with New York restauranteur Sarah Jenkins and her chef Lauren, we were given a tour of the facitlities, including the wine cellar where lots of Derek's home cured charcuterie hangs, literally. Then there's this amazing slicer....jaw dropping chef toy!
Dinner included an array of amazing dishes and wines. As Dana and Alex explained the cuisine, I snapped photographs, trying simultaneously to remember their words, capture the beauty of the scene, and also to sustain the succulence of all the flavors as long as possible. Enjoying a meal that could make you dizzy with delight, the evening became a wonderful blur which even affected my photographs (though let's blame that on the dimming of the lights).
If I am so lucky to return again to Montreal, I will go back and visit, hopefully get a sample of nose to tail cuisine or more of that Sea Duck I had, how deliciously gamey and so Canadian!
I especially want to thank Michele Forgione, my host, for introducing me to two amazing gourmands, who by the way are headed to Noma, no doubt for some inspiration!
The other day over a quick and simple lunch of salad, along with freshly baked walnut bread and cheese. I popped open a bottle of Tilia Bonarda from the Mendoza region of Argentina....It's a Malbec. And it's very good.
With as 13.9 percent alcohol content, the wine has nuances of cherry, dark cassis, and is slighty dry but juicy. It could use a bit of airing to let out its complex body. Two small glasses with the salad, bread and brie let to a nap with the cat for a few winks!
Then yesterday I got some mountain gorgonzola from Murray's Cheese Shop, bringing it up to my mom's home. We brought it up to room temperature, then nestled the cheese in the nooks and crannies of my newly baked Vermont Sourdough. The intense marriage of wine and cheese so complimented each other, I finished up the last drops from the bottle, noting that this is a wine to remember and at a reasonable eight dollars and change. A worthwhile pick with value in taste and the wallet!
Recently, my brother Philippe was in New York City, heading an event for his Colorado employers and Relais Chateaux . Philippe is the multitasking chef, wine & spirits guy, as well the head fly fishing guide for The Home Ranch in Steamboat Springs, Colorado.
A plus of having my brother visit, a bottle of first class Cabernet Sauvignon left behind. A bigger surprise was trying a wine from Junction Colorado. It's called Colterris, and it's surprisingly akin in taste to an Argentine red, Colome. Philippe's present is the second wine I've tried and greatly enjoyed from high altitude regions in the Americas.
It's not the usual cabernet, this is pure fruit, lots of deep flavors with a palate of warm berries and lacking the sometimes harsh tannins. This probably could sit and age beautifully, but we drank the bottle. Hard to stop with such a good American wine!
Wine. It's a hit or miss for me, specifically when trying to decipher the many labels offered by a decent retailer. At those moments, it's easy for me to wish to be a sommelier like Dee Ann Quinones, or just have richer wine knowledge like my brother Philippe. Even after taking a short course in wines back in culinary school (where I more often swallowed the samples rather than spitting out the wine into a bucket like demanded), my wine wisdom is based on luck and circumstance. More often then not, my selections are spontaneous, someone gives me a recommendation, or I return to already tested-vintages.
Take this past Thanksgiving weekend, for instance. Me and my wife visited our local wine dealer in Sunnyside -Lowery Liqours - a store with a solid wine selection and a management open to client suggestions, as well as requests. After buying several bottles, the cashier incented me with a discount for a second bottle. Woosh, I went back to a bottle I had passed but looked interesting, Colomé Estate Malbec from Argentina.
Initially, my wife gawked at the price, as at $27 it was almost 200 percent of the price of my usual limits of ten bucks a bottle. "Are you crazy?" she asked. But I insisted and we got it. Voila! While swigging it down with stuffing and turkey, she came to agree on my choice. After finishing the bottle, I checked out the Bodegas Colomé site and found the varietal mix has an interesting history, and is made in a beautiful region, grown at high altitude. Wine Specatator rates it at 91, not shabby. And Jancis Robinson likes it too. Put me down as a fan as well. Now I hope they restocked the shelf, because last time I looked, they were sold out!
So I am sipping my third or fourth glass of Paul Newman’s Cabernet Sauvignon picked up in Stamford at my mom's fourth of July. I am getting lit, and will probably regret it in the morning. But it's good. I'm good. I want to share some Paul Newman memories. Should I blog and publish or wait till the end of the afterglow, giving me time to edit?
No, here goes. I grew up in Westport, Connecticut. A suburb of New York City, it's a cozy town. A pretty town. A town Paul Newman, like me, called home. The year was around 1972 or 73' or 74'. I forget, except that America's president was Tricky Dick and my hair fell down to my shoulders and my face had too many freckles and a big smile and one night I was at Baskin Robbins with family eating an ice cream cone, when my brother and mom got into a heated argument about a certain bald
gentleman with shades. "Mom, that's Paul Newman!" "Philippe said. "Non, Philippe!" my mother said. They went back and forth like that for way too long, as only a single mom and her oldest son could do.
My brother actually had spent a short time at the same school as Newman's daughter Nell, the pretty woman you always see on the Paul's food packages, so he was even more fiercely adamant than usual. Anyway, there I was, licking the ice cream, listening to my mother and brother argue, thinking about whether the "bald gentlemen" was or wasn't who they said, not even sure why it was so important. Shortly afterwards, I would get to see Newman and Robert Redford in Butch Cassidy, but in those few moments on a cozy summer evening in my cozy town, my round freckled face with ice cream melting onto my chest and then down to my
bellybutton, I remember being struck by the passion this man's name evoked, and then suddenly some local newspaper photographer shot my picture. Paul Newman helped me get in to the newspaper!
As for his wine, well it's got a good taste. Not a Grand Cru, but not bad. Hell, even if it wasn't half as good as it is, Mr. Newman is a guy I respect for his great movies, for his ample charitable efforts, and even for opening a restaurant in a space where my brother was once sous-chef. Anyway, Paul Newman, I drink a toast to you, hoping that like my mother, who survived cancer, that you you get better, and that you have your own summer evenings to enjoy in the future, whether with an ice cream cone or a a glass of a nice tasting wine.
I could not describe myself as a wine expert. In truth, beer is my preferred beverage. But wine comes in a close
second. And though I don't read Wine Spectator, I do like picking wines
sometimes just by
remembering regions,labels, the grape variety and
what I have tried before. And I did enjoy the movie about wine and
Yes. I like wine. Its red color. The bouquet. The way the legs
linger on the side of the glass, and especially the way people describe
the way it tastes. I have heard people describe some wines of having a taste of leather. And one of my former chefs once left his
wine tasting notes on the pass. Reading the notations about a certain
Alsatian wine, I remember he described it as having "the taste of
ashtray!" Undoubtedly he must have picked up a glass with someone’s
cigarette floating at the bottom leaving a sort of ash taste. Luckily, I have yet to experience such flavors.
Red wine is definitely my favorite, though I can't say I would kick out
a bottle of white either. For that matter nor would I snub a rose. I
don't discriminate.One of my latest and favorite findings comes from my brother, Philippe. He is my wine guide and guru. A chef at the Home Ranch a Relais Chateaux property in Clark Colorado, he sets up their wine list, and I hope to get him on board for some tips and advice on matching food with wine. Stay tuned.
On his last visit he came over for an impromptu dinner of lamb chops with orzo and something else. Honestly, I don't quite recall the rest of the meal, because for me, the wine Philippe brought became the dinner's center point. An Owen Roe, Abbots Tale. The lamb was great but as we ate, I just swilled and took
in the full body of this incredible wine. Philippe told me that the wine maker David
O'Reilly had been out to the ranch for some tastings and Philippe told me to try his other notable wines, Severed Hand and Sharecroppers. Now, every wine shop I hit, I ask if they have Owen Roe because it is so dammed enjoyable to drink. Sure its price could hold you back, but once the cork is off the bottle the genie has done it's magic! The fruit taste, the balance of flavor and alcohol are so... hmmm, right there! Just one thing. Before you pour, make sure your glass is clean when you drink it.