Below is a kamut pasta I whipped up at home with my Kitchen Aid. Served with a mix of fresh mushrooms and dried porcini's as a sauce. I only wish Kitchen Aid produced more interesting shaped pastas - say like Arcobaleno. But it worked. Semplice, delizioso!
Rick Easton of Bread and Salty Bakery just had a pop-up at Bruno Pizza. Joined by my pizzaiolo friend,Domenico, we visited to see and talk. Rick had been at it since early in the morning. Turned out his flour was not as extensible as he'd wanted, so he suggested making focaccia sandwiches rather then his signature taglio pizza. Here's what we had, joined by chef Pamela Yung of Semilla.
At the end of a meal in Rome last August, the waiter brought cookies to the table. These circular, sugar speckled treats proved addictively satisfying. Known as "ciambelline di vino rosso" (wine cookies) the memory of their tender anise hinted crunch has haunted since. I finally had a chance to make a batch this past weekend. Be warned if you make them, they don't last!
Pan de Yuca is a gluten-free, levain-free South American bread made with baking powder and lots of cheese. Traditional to Ecuador, Colombia and Brazil, it does make use of tapioca or yuca starch. Here is a batch I made, along with a recipe.
Years ago I had the luck to work with an American baker who had spent a lot of time in Austria. Mike was awfully generous with me, sharing a lot of recipes and techniques for "old world" goodies, stuff with lots of butter, lemon, nuts, chocolate, poppyseed and... I could go on, but won't. My time with Mike deserves its own book. Someday I'll have to write.
Until that day here is a classic he shared with me. "Engadiner Walnuss Torte" has a caramel nut filling encased in a short crust dough. Sticky, nuts, sweet and so good... The one below was also influenced by a Swiss baker using walnut marzipan, and who added walnuts into the dough. I used pecans. Regardless, it turned out great.
These last few years, my terrines have been selling really well. Last fall and winter, I focused on terrines from game birds, specifically pigeons. After attending the Charcuterie Masters Event, I wanted to do something a bit more artistic, rustic, more chunky! So I went for rabbit. And maybe next time I'll try pork hocks, or maybe some other parts like head cheese!
While cleaning the kitchen at work, I found a bundt cake mold. It made me think of working years ago in the The Drake Swiss Hotel's bakery, specifically a cake we made called "Marmor Gugelhupf." It's not a yeasted or baking powder cake, no, no, no! It's a traditional marbled confection, rich in butter, eggs, sugar and chocolate. I quickly whipped up one for the staff. In hindsight, I didn't consider the size of the mold. But what came out was memories. I have a load of these Austrian formulas I'll revisit soon. Meanwhile, lets make some coffee, slice up a piece, and enjoy.
Sicily's "pane cunzatu" delivers that smooth sense of umami. Rooted in tradition, the flavors capture this area's geography of land and sea, from fish to flour. I took some time to make a Pane Nero, then used it as the canvas for the fillings of this traditional panino. Here's the steps in pictures. Bonta!
Chewing the Fat, by author Karima Moyer-Nocci, is the story of Italy's oral food tradition, from fascism to la Dolce Vita. It's a fantastic book. Talking about the book with my friend Karima, specifically the food that came out of Italy's early 20th century colonization of Ethiopia, she suggested a combination loaf from Italian flour along with Ethiopia's super grain known as teff. Using Sicilian semola cuore, I made Lievito Madre with teff and a handful of millet. Here's what I got.
For years this has been almost on the top of my most favorite foods, Gỏi cuốn! So with a never ending flu subverting my taste buds, I fought back with a home-made batch of good eats. Here's what I created. And, yes, that flu couldn't stop them from tasting good. Delicious!