After a visit to Gustiamo, I ordered some Sicilian flour. Tasting Pane Nero again reminded me I needed to approach making this bread differently. Here's what I got using a slow-food description and method, but with a poolish incorporating a sourdough starter. It was the best fermentation so far, and amazing flavor on this mini pagnotta (round loaf).
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My New York City neighborhood of Sunnyside has been the honorary home for 20-years for an alternative Irish celebration of St. Patrick's Day. Known as the St. Patricks For All parade, this year it made the news with the entrance of our illustrious congresswoman, Alexandria Ortiz-Cortez. It's a community that from its inception in the 1930s has been primarily composed of varied waves of working class immigrants. Today's diaspora of newcomers include many folks escaping overpriced Manhattan and Brooklyn, and making this enclave in Western Queens their home.
Once considered the borough's Little Ireland, home to many emigrating Irish men and women, today's more recent immigrants represent everywhere from Korea to Turkey and many other places. Maybe that's why the alternative St. Patricks parade has welcome all to this cherished community. Here's some of what I saw at the celebration, including our new representative and new neighbors.
AOC from Jeremy Shapiro on Vimeo.
Pipers from Jeremy Shapiro on Vimeo.
ST. Patricks For All from Jeremy Shapiro on Vimeo.
Mariachi from Jeremy Shapiro on Vimeo.
County Cork Pipe band from Jeremy Shapiro on Vimeo.
Soul from Jeremy Shapiro on Vimeo.
Pouring a Guinness from Jeremy Shapiro on Vimeo.
Last year while visiting Paris, I got to hang out with my talented friend Thierry Delabre in his bakery. Watching him work, he seemed preoccupied about volume and the quality of his bakes. Since that visit I have been enjoying his Facebook posts of glorious bread and a new team at his boulangerie. Back home I tried two versions of his loafs. The first was a firm sourdough and lower hydration. It got volume but a tighter crumb, which isn't bad for spreading jam and butter as it delivers a no spills experience. The next loaf was with a more-liquid levain and higher hydration. It was high enough to make mixing difficult, but I decided to retard the dough, 48 hours, in fact. I got a wonderful crumb and crust.... All to say that bread baking is a go-back-and-do-it-again sort of science.
Octopus has been a constant rotation on my menu for about four years, proving one of our best selling dishes. I like it grilled, carmelizing the tentacles with brushed balsamic vinegar. This summer I marinated an entire batch with balsamic vinegar, garlic and olive, then rather than grilling it, I slow-cooked the octopus for five hours on the stove. This extra time was worth the tender bite and delicious taste.
So what's a "muffuletta?" Well, it's certainly not the torpedo-shaped bread I wanted to make. And yet, what I got was much closer to the round, flat Sicilian-inspired sandwich bread known as muffuletta. Working with Sicilian lower protein flours, and maybe some over-proofing, I ended up with what struck me as something inglorious, flat, and round.
My cat seemed to be impressed but that only made me angry. But then I cut into the crisp crust and soft center, and I was back in love. With the cat and the bread, as it reminded me of the glorious New Orleans sandwiches, namely the muffuletta. Actually, however influenced by the sultry geography of the bayou, the sandwich's real origins are pani ca 'meusa, a Palermo street food classic called "vastedda" that is normally filled with spleen and lung meat. My own simpler rendition was layered with grilled vegetables, belotta ham and drizzled with oil. God, I love to bake, eat, and feel the affection of surprise. And my cat.
Pan de yuca is basic bread to make with only a few basic ingredients; flour, eggs, butter and baking powder. A simple mix of wet and dry ingredients and no fermentation, just shape and bake. This is my second time making it. There's another version I want to try in the future, something closer to a pâte à choux. Next time. For now, this!
The chill of winter. Lunchtime. Why not return to Ramen Pop, my favorite New York-hipster ramen joint. Though I was inclined to slurp some broth and noodles, I ultimately tried their burger with pineapple. Last time I visited this place, the city was suffering a heatwave. Now the chill factor is... well, mighty cold. Maybe the burger reminded me of summer. Anyway, here's what I sampled including deliciously simple sides.
Einkorn, is one of the oldest varieties of domesticated and cultivated wheat. It's made a revival with bakers, part of the current renaissance around "ancient grains". Popular in middle European countries, it's also known as enkir and le petit epautre. My own trials with it have been decent. This recent try involved less mixing, no autolyse, and just a single fold to final overnight fermentation in my fridge. The grain is flavorful and you can get a nice crumb even with weak gluten.
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