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October Puntarelle
Back in 2014 I wrote about my first puntarelle, a Union Square find that I sliced, curled in ice water and dressed with anchovy and garlic. I was hooked. So this week, when I spotted a big pile of it at the market, I didn't think twice. Give me! It's mid-October, a...
Roberta Pezzella – Inspiration
Cut, Paste, Bake: Learning Filove from a Baker Who Wouldn't Give Me an Interview The first time I asked Roberta Pezzella for an interview, she turned me down. As she put it, her English wasn't good enough to do the conversation justice. I understood. I also didn't let...
KITCHEN ECONOMICS & A TRADE WAR
A $60 Loaf, a Gifted Bag of Idaho Rye, and the Austrian Bread that should be more common September 2026 It started as a spreadsheet problem. I had a scaling calculator, a gift of rye berries from the wonderful Idaho-based regenerative family farmers...
Fermento Etiquette
From One Starter to Three: Rethinking How I Ferment When I started baking sourdough, the lesson was simple: flour, water, time — grow a ferment. I kept one starter, fed it big, and used it to inoculate everything. I also made way too much of it — this was before...
Flour Bag Ends
Two Roads to Pane Nero, Part Two: The Math Finally Catches Up Back in June I wrote about Two Roads to Pane Nero — two loaves built from the same idea (adapt Gustiamo's Pane Nero formula to European flour) but forced down completely different paths: a Swiss multigrain...
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