STIR THE POTS

Green Sauce For The Salmon

One of our signature summer dishes at work was poached salmon. But where we traditionally topped it with a classic French sauce vert (a mayonnaise and chlorophyll mixed sauce), we  needed a change, a tastier green sauce known as "bagnet vert." Based simply on soaked bread, capers, anchovies and oil, it's cleaner, greener, and delicious. 

Taking Off The Edge

In these times of uncertainty, sometimes you need a good cocktail. Here are two cocktails I enjoy for slow sipping. First up is benefit of Jose Andre's Mercado, a downtown NYC-food market. They make their own version of a Spanish-influenced gin-and-tonic, garnished with fresh juniper. In my version, I added rosemary and a wonderful lemon known as "a hand of buddha," here candied for an extra bite.

 

Second up is a Negroni knockoff that works in armagnac, vermouth, and an after-dinner apertif wine called Laubade Floc. In this case, it was shaken not stirred. And it was lovely, as was the rest of my late afternoon and evening!

 

 

 

Lets hope cocktails will be shared in celebration when this virus is neutralized, meanwhile...go easy, but pour me another one!

 

Grissini

Grissini are classic bread sticks. Years ago working as a cook at the Sony Club, we made them in-house. Actually the job was reserved for the intern cook. At the time, it seemed a torturous process, maybe because you had to get them done before lunch. Years later I met a former intern and he still remembered the grind. In retrospect, they aren't that tough to make but when you're under pressure to produce them in the dozens, well, it could be demanding. And they were enjoyed by the many entertainment senior executives who dined at our dining room back then. They were addictively good to nibble. Today with the help of a pasta roller and fettuccine cutter, never mind some time on your hand, you can make them at home and enjoy. 

Here's the recipe.

Preparation

 

In a small bowl gently stir the yeast into 1/4 cup of the warm water. Add the sugar and 

let the mixture rest in a warm place for 10 to 15 minutes until it is creamy.

 

Sift together the 6 1/4 cups flour, salt, and pepper into a large bowl and make a 

well in the center. 

Add the yeast mixture, the remaining 1 3/4 cups water, the 1/4 cup oil, 

and the rosemary and sage to the well. 

Using a fork, gradually draw the flour into the liquid in the well. 

When the dough is too stiff to stir with the fork, use your hands to 

work in the remaining flour. 

Turn the dough out onto a floured pastry board and knead until smooth, 

elastic, and not sticky, about 10 minutes. 

If the dough is still sticky, add a little more flour. Pat the dough into a ball. 

Oil a clean bowl and place the ball of dough in it. 

Brush a little oil on top. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

 

When it is time to make the breadsticks on the following day, preheat an oven to 350°F. 

Generously oil 4 baking sheets with olive oil. 

Take a large handful of dough from the bowl in the refrigerator, 

leaving the remainder covered and refrigerated, 

and place it on a lightly floured board. Roll it out as thinly as you can by hand. 

Dust it with flour and pass it through the rollers of the pasta machine at the 

first setting (largest opening) to flatten it further. 

Now fold it in thirds as you would a letter, overlapping 

the top third and then the bottom third over the middle third.

 (This will give the dough a uniform shape.) 

Dust the folded dough lightly with flour and pass it through the first setting again, feeding it from one of its open ends. 

Now pass the dough through the fettuccine-cutting attachment. The grissini will be very long — about 1 foot in length — 

which give them a dramatic effect in a bread basket on the table. Arrange the grissini well spaced on a prepared baking sheet. 

Brush generously with more olive oil. 

Repeat with the remaining dough, working with a large handful at a time. 

Fill only as many baking sheets as will fit in your oven comfortably.

 

Bake in the preheated oven until golden, about 35 minutes. Remove to wire racks to cool. 

Form and bake the remaining grissini in the same manner. Serve them stacked in an oblong bread basket, 

or standing up in an attractive vessel deep enough to contain them. To store, place them in airtight metal or plastic 

 

 

Ceviche - Where Earth Meets Sea

Ceviche is the quintessence of fish dishes, a meeting of land and sea. The ingredients are basic; fish, chilies, onions, cilantro, and salt. Its magic is the transformative power of citrus cures. In South America, it's often served with plantain chips, toasted corn ("cancha tostada"), or popped corn ("canguil").

In my visits to Ecuador, following a heart-focused diet, I managed to enjoy some salt-restricted ceviche. Returning home to work, I decided to incorporate a more Peruvian styled version, known as leche de tigre. This style features scallops and sweet potatoes. I think of it as food for the gods. 

 

Plantain Empanadas

Plantains are a favorite of mine. They're also still cheap at this time. Why not use them for simple meals that are nutritious and a healthy carb that's fiber rich and will keep you regular!

 

Plantain tortillas

 

Ingredients

 

2  green  plantains (400 g)

1 tsp sea salt

30 g tapioca starch for rolling out (or plantain flour)

coconut oil or manteca  

 

Instructions

Cut 2 plantains into 4 sections (skin on or off.)

Bring a pot of water to a boil and add plantains. Boil for 15 minutes till the plantains are tender and mashable. Then drain and let cool slightly.

Peel plantains and discard the peel. Then add the plantain and salt to a blender or a food processor. Blend until a ball forms (30 seconds) - it will be sticky

Make small walnut size balls and press between sheets of plastic wrap till uniform and round. 

Fill with mix of cheese and if you like some sliced scallions. Fold and press edges together, cover so the empanadas don't dry out while finishing the rest.

Fry...till golden.

Eat hot.

 

With a tortilla press and some plantains, I was able to put together a healthy comfort meal. Empanadas de verde, which are green mashed plantain filled with scallions and cheese. Simple. Bingo, I made these once in Ecuador and have since enjoyed them as a snack and in various culinary guises...you should too.

 

 

 

 

Quarantine Challenge

The 20th century had biker gangs. Well, the 21st century war against Covid inspired baker gangs. My friend Thierry has a new one. Bro Members (bread) is a collection of world wide bakers confined by the quarantined to baking at home! Here's how we tough bakers roll. It's a rumble in the kitchen. First up, Thierry faced me off against Chicago-based baker Romain Dufour. Given we're more effete fancy-pants than any off-the-shelf Harley-dudes, we start our battles with a little friendly tete-a-tete discussion. And then? It's on!

Here's how my challenge went, all video-taped and delivered to Romain, Thierry, as well as my fellow Bros. And now to you. Inspired by a Tasmanian bakery (who often inspires me called Apiece of bread) below is a video of what I made. In the next few weeks, after getting "an okay" from my bros, I'll share some of their videos. 

 

 

 

Final shape from Jeremy Shapiro on Vimeo.

Hot Dogs

My immigrant roots move between love of baseball and the German food stuff on which I grew up. Back in March, I had a certain longing. Seeing that my butcher was offering some great hot dogs, I mixed some bread dough for buns and made Boston baked beans.

Indian Influenced Rolls

While spending listless, worried hours scouring food-related recipes that could inspire and nourish, I wandered into vegan-Indian oriented recipes. I found some recipes for breads, buns and roles on this blog, adapting them for sourdough. The whole wheat buns ncluded Tangzhong roux method