STIR THE POTS

Liverpool House

Visiting Montreal, one of our goals was a dinner at Joe Beef. Finding it was booked, we decided to try it's partner restaurant, Liverpool House. Arriving there after a six hour airport travail (the detail of which I'll spare you) we were late for our reservation. But they were kind enough to immediately take two enormously hungry American cousins. The server was was great with wine, meal suggestions, and charm. And the food was terrific. Oysters from Prince Edward Island were amazing, as was a crudo of striped bass that reminded me of Grenobloise. Here's some of what we saw and had!

Montreal

On a whim, we picked Montreal for our August vacation. Why not? It's full of great chefs, bakers, markets, and the wonderful colloquial Quebecois French. Honestly, we most wanted a chance to visit my good friend Domenico and his new family. It was a great trip and visit, even as the COVID-19 pandemic has changed how we travel. Beyond those dynamics, Montreal has grown larger but is still charming and expressed such a warm friendly feeling, and even if we lost some hours with long lines and nose swipes, it was worth it.

Ciabatta

My latest project was ciabatta, the slipper bread of the eighties. My take was its popularity came in response to answer to the fashion of the era, French baguettes. With stronger flour, more water that gave bigger alveoli to the baked dough, it seemed a good idea for combining with multiple fillings for a panini.

Michael James

 

 

 

 

 

Tivoli Bread is one of my prized baking books, a treasure trove of beautiful photographs and precise recipes. I decided to ask its author, Michael James, to share his stories and thoughts on baking and cooking on Stir the Pots. He was kind enough to oblige. We did an interview online via texting. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How did you become a chef?

What I enjoyed most at school was sport and cooking, and I didn’t have the talent to be a football player so my Dad who was a chef got me a job in a big 5 star hotel in London. And that was the start of my career a country kid in a big intimidating hotel :).

What was the reason you switched from chef to baker?

Mostly because I would stay behind and help out after service or I was just keen to keep learning and know everything about food, I was in a 2 star Michelin restaurant in London and I did the petit four and bread section then went back into cooking so it grabbed me and a young age. It was an evolution from cook to pasty chef then baker.

In the restaurant I worked they either made bread or in implemented a sourdough bread product as I believe everything should be made in house. 

How has bread craft shaped your skills?

I guess with bread you need goof intuition and be able to be intuitive helps a lot. No days are the same, flour changes, the humidity, ambient temp,  the baker and the environment.  And the more I know about bread the more I realize I got to learn from growing to fermentation. It’s endless…

How do you think hospitality field will recover or change due to the pandemic?

It’s hard we are in a lockdown again… I hope we are use and support local farmers and producers more, support artisan small businesses.  More appreciation from the consumers that what these people do is amazing and should be celebrated. And by not going to cheap and nasty fast food places that cost the earth… literally. 

How hard or easy was it to write books?

To be honest it’s extremely hard.. Book 1 was whilst writing a book whilst looking after a small child and running a small bakery in Melbourne. Stress levels are high. It’s was like doing service in a 2 star restaurant again. All day for months. Feeling anxious, nervous and trying to get everything precise and correct.
Book 2 was also challenging, singed match 2020, manuscript delivered in December 2020, written in a pandemic whilst homeschooling and trying to be positive doing the writing whilst being locked up. And was written in less than a year. The photo shoot was the day after a hard lockdown that went on for months…that was fun. It had to be :).  So someday I would like to do a book where the timeline is less stressful:) 

Was owning a small independent bakery all that it turned out to be?

Yes it was amazing and challenging.

Dealing with local farmers and local producers was great, making a change. And asking questions. There was no local butter sheets for pasty when we started then I asked around and Naomi at king valley (now closed) and Ben at St David Dairy produced excellent sheets afterwards year and all the trials. So that was very rewarding, now there are at least 3/4 more dairy’s making the most butter sheets locally. 
We had the best customers and got to know most of them, and to this day still see them around Melbourne. 

But staff was always a difficult; like have 20 extra children and being the boss of course it all comes back to you. And they love to whine and complain more these days…

Having the Freedom to do what you want to do and use all that experience from cooking to baking over the years was a dream come true and In hindsight we did a lot in a very small space. Big range and big numbers. It became overwhelming at times especially after Chad Robertson came for a week then the cook came out after. 
Next time it will be less is more look at it. 
With a good open bakery …

 

What are some of your favorite grains?

In Australia we don’t have a broad range just yet, but that is changing again by talking to farmers and having our gatherings like grainz this can happen here in Australia. In Australia mine is the spelt from Burrum biodynamics. 

I love the øland wheat hopefully more in Australia soon ;)
Oh and anything to do with the population/landrace wheat’s that’s the way forward to grow for the environment and with the environment. Natural biodiversity is key.
Where does your baking inspiration come from?

Oh good question…initially it was Dan Lepard  I was a broke cook going to the big posh stores in London like Selfridges and Harrods and I would read Dan’s book on my break, then I got Chads Tartine book like so many others and that inspired me further. Now I get inspired from bakers like Blair at Elmore or Jim at Back door Bread. Mostly books and Instagram. Being inspired then use what’s around you and make it your own.

How well trained are workers in the baking industry today?

I find not very. Usually have to un-train them and show them how I do it to be honest. And with Covid a huge shortage of any baker’s now.  I like career changers. They are a blank canvas and can be shown my way. I usually don’t hire career bakers from large bakeries.  I want consistency and quality. 

Do you think bread should be served warm or reheated in restaurants?

Just warm. As long as it’s well made from local flour and made on the day it will be good.
Please don’t reheat.

Does in house baking in restaurants hurt the industry, or is it worth the effort?

Worth the effort I did it they all should. Chefs are jumping on the baking bandwagon now since Covid and think the Press thinks are great. Usually it’s average. But at least they have a Go and can appreciate the process and everyday skills involved and respect the baker more. They complain as soon as it’s a cm out or not big enough when they buy it wholesale from bakeries. So for them to make sourdough and see the differences every day is good…

 

Why don’t people make more baked savory dishes?

Oh I hope they do now with All Day Baking …

It’s a culmination of my cooking and baking background. And a lot of what we did at Tivoli road Bakery. And I saw a big gap in the market for a savory baking book. So hopefully that will change;). 

Do you feel like a pioneer using whole grains like in your rye puff pastry?

Um. No I like rye a lot it’s under used here

Adding some in gives you more flavor more diversity and more challenges. I did it as after visiting the USA and meeting Dr.Stephen Jones at the grain gathering in WA. I was totally inspired to use a variety of grain and keep it whole. 

What trends are you interested in baking?

None …just use what’s around you, keep it local and use more of the grain:)

I don’t want to see or eat a tri color croissant :( 

Did you panic or have flour shortages during lock downs?

No I didn’t panic. Just got flour from my local bakers friends. 
Then kept on testing for the book and baking for locals :) 

I’ve been scutinizing your Instagram account and found so many baker hero’s I like. Who’s a new baker you admire?

Yes I have so many hero’s :) from Dan in the beginning to Chad, Justin Gellaty, Blair at Elmore. Bonnie OHara at Alchemy bread.  And of course my friend Ian at apiece.

 

New or newish …probably … Kim at small food in Nottingham UK. Or Matthew Jones in California. Is exceptional baker. 

What do you prefer; Wheat, rye or what other grains?

Depends on what’s it’s for. For bread, I prefer good local well farmed wheat. 
I like the older varieties they have more flavor. Again that is happening more and more here now, I go to uk or USA. And they have so many varieties of wheat’s and populations wheat’s it always such a joy to work with and most importantly taste. 

Occasionally rye again I like to use in pastry for flavor and complexity 

And love the spelt we get here in oz .
My favorite was a 100% spelt loaf we freshly milled.

Is baking a younger person’s profession?

I don’t think so..   It’s definitely tough, physically demanding on the body. I believe the older you get you have to work smarter not harder.  And also with everything look after the body good diet , exercise regularly like gym , yoga and Pilates really help for longevity, and with that using equipment that helps with the heavy lifting like loaders, water meters, mixers that dump dough etc..

I’m at Red Beard bakery helping out it’s a physically demanding bakery and the heat from the old wood scotch oven is intense. So I’m mindful like with playing sport to stretch and go for walk and Covid permitting go to the gym or Pilates it makes such a difference especially when you get over your mid 30s..

 

As knives are a chefs tools and sensory by nature, what is a bakers tool box?

A good bakery and baker for me it's Mostly your own hands :) 

A dough cutter preferably wood handled and a good stainless steel shaft to hold the razor I have one from France my friend sent me and is always with me that’s about it.

Should crumb be wide open or even?

Kinda even sized and irregular, nothing too big other wise where’s the butter or jam going to go?.

Will you write another book?

Yes Hopefully In the future, maybe just one more, if All Day Baking does well then potentially a follow up to it like all sweet/Pastry.

But not yet. So fingers crossed:)

 

THE END

 

Olive et Gourmando

Here's one of the marvelous spots from my visit to Montreal. Besides enjoying a great meal, I met former-CIA analyst and current MSNBC commentator Malcolm Nance, who was also enjoying its food. Great place I had visited previously and had to return. Someday maybe they'll share their recipe for the exquisite prune bread. In the meantime, here's some photos of what we enjoyed. 

 

Pierre Ragot

 

 

Two summers ago I met Pierre Ragot at his boulangerie in Marseille. I'd heard of him  through our common friend Thierry Delabre. While I tried to speak some French, he joked about my lack of linguistic skill, simultaneously sharing his plans to open more places in Marseille and inviting me to come work with him. "Avec le pain y’a pas besoin de beaucoup parler!" Well, I have not yet had that opportunity but he did agree to come talk with us at Stir the Pots. 

 

 

 

How did you become a baker?

When I was fourteen, coming back from an evening with friends, we stopped to eat pastries in the bakery in my neighborhood in Courbevoie, I felt enchanted by the place, the smells, the gestures. .. since then the passion was born.

 

What prompted you to leave Paris for Marseille?

It was the meeting with Lisa (wife) that prompted me to come down to live in Marseille, a choice that I do not regret because here I feel good.

 

 

How has the pandemic changed your profession?

It didn't change my profession at all, we had more work that's all.

Who is Thierry Delabre to you?

My master, My friend, My brother.

What was the Bro method?

Bro was the genesis of a project that Thierry had, The Training Project.

What has changed in your business?

Fermentations, (Ancient) grains

With Thierry, we took two years to set up an ideal fermentation and sourdough to achieve the bread of our dreams.

How did the idea of ​​milling at the bakery come about?

The project was born from the desire to always improve our work, and the fact of working in extra fresh grinding will allow us to further raise the quality level of our products, because in extra fresh grinding you have all the quintessence of the flour. (minerals, vitamins ...

In addition, by working with this mill we will work directly with the farmer, which is magic.

Is the tradition of bread changing in France?

Yes, the bread tradition takes a different turn and it is much better thanks to Thomas and Thierry. Organic, sourdough, local.

Firm sourdough or liquid, do you use both or which do you prefer?

I use hard sourdough. I prefer the hard sourdough for the crust it gives, and its extra softness.

Which cereal do you like the most?

My favorite wheat is the bearded of Roussillon from Henri de Pazzis and the population of fleur de Berry wheat.

 

What makes good bread?

Who makes good bread? Thierry delabre.

Are baking methods changing and depending on who or what?

Yes the baking methods are very important, as important as the kneading methods

Why do you think people were more interested in baking during lockdown?

People were interested in baking during lockdown because they were pissed off at home!

Are you planning to write a book on bread?

Yes I plan to write a book on bread very soon..

Who inspires you?

The only two people who inspire me are Poilâne and Delabre.

How does one obtain the CAP if you live abroad or if you do not speak French fluently?

Getting the course in France without speaking French, it will have to happen at Thomas Teffri-Chambelland… EIDB

What bread do you eat the most?

The bread I eat the most is the le barbu de Rouissilon.

 

THE END

Café Phin

I'm a coffee junkie. I own an espresso machine, a Bialetti moka pot, and now a Vietnamese Phin filter. I always remembered seeing these Phin filters while visiting my favorite pho place on Chinatown's  Baxter street. But for whatever reason I had never actually tried Vietnamese coffee. My wife recently suggested we try iced coffee with condensed milk, which inspired me to try this Phin filter. Boom, it's a new vice. 

Ugo Perret-gallix

 

 

 

I met Ugo Perret-gallix on Bro @BreadRevolutionorganization on Facebook, what inspired me was his bread, but also that he's a chef de cuisine too. On top of being a fantastic baker he also is working in Japan in a top end Tokyo restaurant, Esquisse. I decided to try some of his formulas first. Then I invited him to share his story here on Stir the Pots. And he obliged.

 

How did you become a cook?

As a child, I always liked to eat. I was always greedy and I did not like school ....

 

Did you start baking bread before or during your current job?

I started baking at the age of 15 after apprenticeship with Chef Thierry Marx in Pauillac (Médoc).
First meeting with the bakery, the restaurant bread was prepared by a professional baker.

How did you become interested in working in Japan?

My wife is Japanese, we met in France in a restaurant, she is also a cook.

Do you think that French artists of the past were influenced by Japanese art? Likewise, as a chef like you, are you influenced by his food in the same way?

Japanese culture is a very deep and complex culture at the same time but there are a lot of similarities with the French culture we like the same things, drinking, eating, art ect.

Was it difficult to train or work in Japan?

Not particularly, but the Japanese have a rather particular relationship to work so it is not given to everyone to be able to work there.

What professional and cultural differences have you experienced?

The food here obviously have eat rice three times a day it was complicated at first.

What does “Bastard of his race” mean and is it also protected by copyright?

This is a name that I gave to my bastards in tribute to my mentor Thierry Delabre who liked to identify them in this way when he saw one. But a bastard of his race belongs to everyone who comes out of the oven.

How did the bakery at Esquisse come about?

In Japan for two months (April 2020 / May 2020), Esquisse was closed for  due to the Corona virus so I found myself doing nothing with my days which was impossible for me, so I started baking.

Can you describe the kind of cuisine Esquisse serves?

Cuisine between France and Japan a cuisine of intention and delicacy carried by an artist Lionel Beccat.

How did you meet Thierry Delabre?

Via the social network. A phone call is all it takes to start a teacher-student relationship.

Have you tried making more Asian or Japanese style breads like Shokupan or Anpan?

No because for me it is not bread as I understand it!

What types of dishes did you grow up eating in your region of France?

I come from the Drôme hills bordering with Isère and Vercors so Dauphinoise cuisine rocked my childhood.

How long is your stay in Japan?

I have been in Japan for six years.

Do you want to open a restaurant?

I don't think so, but a bakery yes !!

How has the pandemic affected restaurants and hotel businesses?

We were rather spared here there was no real containment like in France or the United States.

What's your favorite dish?

French cuisine: gratin dauphinois and my mom's leg of lamb. So far as Japanese cuisine, my wife's hometown Kurume (Kyushu) ramen.

What type of flour do you mainly use, wheat, or rye?

Wheat, rye, large spelled, kamut, chestnut.

How do you reconcile your responsibilities as a chef and a baker?

For me it's the same thing I work in the kitchen from morning to night, baking extra bread.

What are the differences between the art of baking bread and the art of cooking?

The same demands and the same attention, each bread is different every day.
Like fish or meat.

 

THE END