Twelve years ago while working Friday nights at Bouley bakery, we would get paid with bread by the head baker. Nothing like using your hands all night, and going home with freshly baked loaves you handled from dough to finish. One of the loaves I loved the most was made with a poolish of apple cider, and studded with raisins and apples. It's a taut-looking round loaf, with both fruits popping through, a slice of apple for garnish and a lightly golden crust. Inside you find the smell of cider, levain, and fruit – a perfect foil for say cheese or butter or just simply eaten plain.