A Stir The Pots Post

Fulvio Marino

by | Nov 11, 2021 | Bread, Flour, miller

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@letiziacigliutti

 

Fulvio Marino is a third generation miller and baker from Italy's Piedmont region. He now leads bread development for Eataly's global gourmet food store (playground). As fans, we invited Marino to share his insights and thoughts about life in the world of bread. on Stir the Pots. He was kind enough to give us some time. 

 

So Fulvio, how would you describe yourself; are you a baker or a miller?

I was born in a mill and I am a miller. Bread became a passion and then it became a real job. I can say that I am both.

Where did you learn your baking skills?

As a miller I had the great opportunity to go to many bakeries and be able to work with many great professionals passing through the main door, I gave them technical skills on flour and they told me about their job and made me work with them, this in Italy and in around the world.

 

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What is your preferred grain?

Absolutely the enkir, the triticum monococcum, the Oromo cereal domesticated by man in the fertile crescent, with which man begins agriculture. A very environmentally sustainable and very tasty cereal, rich in carotenoids and low in gluten.

Is bread a vehicle for sandwiches only, or does it have another role at the table?

Not only that, bread for me is the main diet of the table, the first food that comes with the meal and that is to be shared.

Tell us about your Mulino Marino. Give us some history. 

We started working with organically grown cereals before there were certifications. We became certified organic in 1994 and since 2007 we have been processing only organic cereals in our mill. We are bio-dedicated.

 

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How are you changing Eataly’s production of bread?

Eataly's baking has changed me. When I tasted Eataly bread for the first time it was 2006, in a bakery made by a French baker Remy Costa, a great professional from whom I learned a lot. Then I put my own to make it even better and to replicate all over the world by bakers.

 

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What bread describes Piedmont? 

The biova! A very good hard dough bread! Then the bread with rye and corn bread eight rows.

Are artisan bakeries in Italy changing bread culture or are they still competing with industrialized baking market?

The showy bakers in Italy have been doing a great job for years. In Italy we have great biodiversity both in terms of cereals and in terms of regional breads. The industrial market is a different thing, they can coexist.

How has the pandemic changed bread baking?

The moment we all found ourselves locked in the house, we immediately understood that the food that brings us closer and that makes us return home is bread. Bread is therapeutic and comforting. We have become more aware of this food which before was perhaps considered by most as a commodity and not as a food full of good meanings.

Describe your signature Mediterranean bread.

It is a bread that flows through the cereal history of the Mediterranean basin and its Mediterranean diet. A bread made of whole wheat and rye flours and 7 different types of seeds.

How different are breads varieties by region in Italy?

So many, I don't have a precise account, every region, almost every country, almost every house has its own typical bread.

Rai Television's show, E' sempre mezzogiorno (in English, It is always noon) showcases your bread baking. Hw did this begin for you?

It started from the chef's rehearsal the previous transmission by Antonella Clerici in which I already went before this program. Then during the pandemic, I started directing Instagram where I showed everyone how to cook bread for free, I also did many with Antonella Clerici, from then on when it was planned to leave at noon, she asked me to take care of a daily column that talked about bread.

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How long have you been working on your book "Dalla terra al pane"

that was just published?

It has experience gained in 21-years of baking. Which then resulted in the book 

Is sourdough your preferred ferment rather than commercial yeast?

It depends on the types of bread I want to make. For some it is better the brewer's yeast for others type The large-sized loaves you prefer the mother yeast.

Who inspires you?

My grandfather happy to understand the quality. Many bakers around Italy and of the world.

Enkir. Is it part of Mulino Marino?

It is a chain of farmers who sow this ancient grain in Piedmont. It is an evolutionary population of several families of Triticum monococcum (aka Einkorn wheat).

Is retarding dough the preferred method or can your formulas be straightforward?

It always depends on the type of product. There is no preference.

Is bread sustainable?

Absolutely yes!

Next projects?

I think about the present!

 

7 Comments

  1. Boris

    Have you worked at Eataly in New York City and do you speak English?

    Reply
  2. Jeremy Shapiro

    Hi Boris, no I haven’t worked at Eataly, but ate there a few times. And yes…I do speak English..

    Reply
  3. Beatrice

    Hi, I’m italian I live in central Italy in the region colled Marche I like backing at home I use ancient grains flours produced by Stone mill, I know Mulino Marino flours, sometimes I buy them, I know Filippo Drago flours I bought them eyars ago, here there are many small Stone mil, my 1st supplir IS Mulino Marzetti, it grind organic locale ancient grains and I buy flours directly in this mill. It IS fantastic

    Reply
  4. Jeremy

    Ciao Beatrice,
    I know a baker from Marche! I have two mills actually, but do like Marino flour as well Filippo who I know pretty well, visited and interviewed him as well! I’ll have to look up Mazetti, grazie!
    Jeremy

    Reply
  5. Beatrice

    To bake with drago’s flours for me was difficult, better with mulino marino’s flours!
    What’s The name of the Baker from Marche do you know?
    Beatrice

    Reply
  6. Jeremy

    Beatrice,
    Her name is Monica Mancini, she has classes on lievito madre breads. As for Drago flours, they can be deficile but I have had some success’s because of it qualities that are naturally Sicilian flour that work, but you have to find a way to understand it’s manageability… Yes you can…
    Jeremy

    Reply
  7. beatrice

    I know Monica she lives in Potenza Picena near Recanati , my town, she gave me her lievito and I took part to her coueses.
    Beatrice

    Reply

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