White pan sandwich loaf are the quintessential American breads. From starting as high intensity factory-whipped doughs all the way to arriving in plastic bags to your table, it’s a wonder how it’s done. In France, such breads are called “pain de mie.” In England, they’re “pullman loafs.” In the past few months, I’ve been baking such breads using an old formula from my school days. It’s a highly yeasted product but quite good, beautiful when sliced, and much better than commercial specimens made in a factory. The other day I decided to play with formulas, shifting the white loaf from yeast to levain, thus exchanging the direct method to a longer fermentation. It was a winner for the slow movement and a healthier loaf.