From our friend, the wonderful baker Dan Lepard overseas…
Here are some things you might want to know about it.
Best naturally leavened bread – the wheat-germ leaven bread made by baker Jon Rolfe and his team at The Flour Station in Battersea, available at Fresh and Wild (Notting Hill) and Neals Yard Dairy (Covent Garden and Borough). For stockists telephone (020 7223-5656).
Still mighty good is the Poilane loaf from the company’s Elizabeth Street SW1 bakery (020 7808-4910).
Best croissants – I’m very taken with the architecture of the Jim Webb’s
croissants at Ottolenghi in Upper Street, Islington (020 7288-1454). But do check out the few filled viennoiserie bits at Sketch Telephone: 0870 777-4488) as they taste great.
Cakes – Konditor & Cook, with branches in Gray’s Inn Road, WC2; Borough Market SE1 (020 7407-5100); and Cornwall Road, Waterloo, make big flavoured cakes. Revive your glam-rock side with a few lines of cochineal from the Hummingbird Bakery Telephone: 020 7229-6446), where Red Flannel Cake, psychedelic cupcakes and fudgy chocolate layer cake rule.
Sally Clarke (020 7229-2190) makes great cakes in the boulangers’ patisserie style – clunky and full of flavour.
Other baking – Troels Bendix and Kurt Anderson at Breads Etcetera (020 7274 6100) bake a very good Danish wholegrain rye loaf.
Matt Jones at Flour Power is shipping loaves around the country via www.flourpowercity.com . There is a full list here.
Stoneground flour – Go to Matt and Anne Scott from the Bacheldre Watermill (01588 620489 ) in Wales. Their flour is available from Harrods and Selfridges. Mixes to a beautifully flavoured loaf, and I swear there’s more vigorous fermentation in the dough with their flour. But always, Shipton Mill is the flour I rely upon.
Malted bits – if I’m not sprouting, toasting and grinding grains then I rely on Muntons, one of our oldest maltsters in England