Lately I'm trying a style of coffee introduced to me by my friend Domenico. Made on a stove top, it's known as a moka (or macchinetta), those aluminum pots filled with dark Neapolitan grounds. Slowly heated over a low flame, they produce a luscious brew that is neither espresso or the watery liquid known in this country as coffee. Much more tasty than today's ubiquitous press-button capsule machines.