Translated as "under the stars," Sotto Le Stelle's name captures the warmth and dazzle of this new pizzeria. Recently opened in my own neighborhood of Sunnyside, Queens, it's owned by Manuel De Gregorio, who is also partners in the nearby restaurant, SoleLuna.

In the past, I have been advised by pizza experts that you judge the quality of a baker's pies by first tasting their most basic, the marinara. The idea is if the marinara is good then that suggests you can trust their other more exotic creations. Sotto Le Stelle's marinara was excellent. Next time I'll be more experimental. Anyway,  with patient and attentive service, as well as a Juventus football game playing above the bar, it was as close to Naples as I could get on this New York sultry autumn evening. Mangia!