My first lessons in making potato gnocchi were with my brother. He followed a formula that I think was from Auguste Escoffier. Ever since, I've loved the puffy dumpling(really a pasta) that marries well with sauce and garnishes, whether tomato sauce or classic sage and brown butter. Recently I decided to do a batch with butternut squash as a replacement for potatoes. To garnish, I browned butter with nutmeg, ginger and chili, then added a wilted radicchio, roasted red pepper and arugula as a vehicle for a grilled fish.
In the spring of 2007, we reached out to Anthony Bourdain for an interview. By then, Bourdain was established as a...