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The Modern

The Modern

Celebrating my recent birthday on a Saturday afternoon, my wife brought me to one of the places where I started my career, the "members' only dining room " at New York's Museum of Modern Art. I had been back a few years ago at The Modern, the new public restaurant...

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Gigot D’Aubergine

Tasked with making a simple dinner that was primarily plant-based, I revisited a dish from one of my visits to Turkey. Actually, it was one of my creations, inspired while working in the kitchen of Dilara, my host when I visited Istanbul several summers ago.  It...

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Nougat

Nougat is a chewy nut confection with roots back in the Roman Empire, only more likely first crafted in what is now Turkey and Greece rather than Italy. In my early days as a pastry cook, I remember wanting to master this challenging mixture of hot sugar and honey...

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Gai-lan

I have always loved green vegetables, like  Gai-lan, a type of Chinese broccoli found in Asian food markets. It works wonderfully in scrumptious preparations steamed or stir fried. Whereas spinach also a native of Asia goes simply in a dish like Goma Ae, a...

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Macarons

Macarons are sometimes confused with Emmanuel Macron, the President of France, at least too news-deprived Americans. In fact, macarons are splendid sweeties, a mix of egg white meringue shells that are baked and filled with ganache, butter cream or fruit jam. There...

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Canelé

While on a day tour through Alsace on holidays I stopped into a kitchen supply store and purchased molds, including some for canelé. Canelés are unique pastry from Bordeaux. They are not easy to make. While composed of a simple batter of flour, eggs, sugar and milk,...

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