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    June 29, 2009

    Taking a breather!

    As some of you may have noticed, I haven't been blogging recently. I'm taking a bit of a break, the reason being my schnozz,specifically a deviated septum. Work load has been at the limit and thus with illness and stress,can make a less than happy puppy!  But to get better... to lift my spirits before heading to the doc for some minor surgery, I have been cooking and baking,  as well as visiting the farmers market too. All to say that won't fill this post with lots of words, but rather offer plenty of pictures, with titles where appropriate!

    IMG_1648 Zatar grilled lamb chops with salad and patacones,(fried plantains.)

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    Cold Lobster,shrimp, purslane, hearts of palm ceviçhe and lobster tomalley dressing.


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    Most excellent blueberry and oat muffins

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    Lettuces from the Union Square Green Market

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    The bounty of spring and summer!

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    Rising miche in a banneton

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    My adaption of Alain Coumont's wheat bread, my Pain Quotidien.

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    Rhubarb, strawberry galette.

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    Levain based on Jeffrey Hamelman's Norwich sourdough.


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    70% Rye/30% wheat, Detmolder 1 Step method from Dieter Buschmans spreadsheet!


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    No name levain based on a pide recipe!


     




    One man's pizza is anothers flammeküche.

    As any regular reader of this blog might guess, pizza has always been a  favorite for me. It can be interpreted in so many way. And its derivative names comes in so many different languages! Here's my own addition to those pies and names. This pie is an off shoot of two cultural mainstays; a marriage of sourdough Neapolitan pizza with Alsatian ingredients of a flammeküche, a pizza with no borders!

    This will be going to Zorra 1 x umrühren for her pizza BBD 2 year anniversary, viel spaße!(Got to join in the fun, because pizza is fun, isn't it?)

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    Pizza Napoletana
    Recipe adapted to sourdough from Verace Neopolitano style pizza

    500g “00” caputo or A.P. flour
    325g aqua (water)
    20g sale  (salt)
    3gr livieto (yeast)

    Sourdough version: Based on 100% percent hydrated starter

    376 g flour
    201g Water
    247g Levain
    20g salt

    Flammeküche topping:

    Onions about 2 medium sliced

    a couple of slice's of really good smoked bacon cut into small dice

    a bay leaf, salt and pepper

    2 Tablespoons of greek yogurt, a spoon of quark or fresh cheese, salt, pepper nutmeg.

    Sweat onions in a pan with about a quater of a cup of water till softened and starting to get golden brown, add bacon and continue cooking with bay leaf, season and let cool.

    mix the yougurt and fresh quark, season.

    Cover the rolled out dough with yogurt and cheese mixture, spread cooled onion topping.

    Bake in pre-heated oven @ 500 F till bottom and edges of pizza or flammeküche get a nice crusty brown look!

    Drink with a good, no excellent beer, maybe an ale, IPA or lager?

    BreadBakingDay #21 - Pizza Party and giveaways for 2 years anniversary - last day of sumbission July 1st

    June 15, 2009

    Liquid bread, bier, cerveca, biere, brewski!

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    Bread and beer are, by far, two of my favorite food and drink. They are intertwined  by virtue of  similar ingredients and fermentation processes The only difference is the lack of flour in beer, hence the moniker "liquid bread." After so many posts about baking, I found myself thinking how  strange I haven't been talking about beer with as much gusto as bread?

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    When I was in the Army in Germany, we drank lots of bier. Luckily, I was in the bosom of hops and visited amazing  beer institutions like the braühaus. A good thing! Tankards, boots, steins, almost anything that could hold the beverage had a traditional name,a song, a method of ordering, even how to drink, all symbolizing something in ceremony of the culture that is beer. 

    In the past few weeks as the weather has warmed up, the seasonal urge for "a cold one" emerges as something offering satisfaction, flavor, and delight. And so preparing for our Memorial bar-b-que, perusing the shelves at Fairway market for sundry sausages and cheese, I spotted some fantastic looking beers and tucked a few in between the apples and pate!

    Never one to shy away from a cold glass or room temperature ale like in Wales a few years ago, I picked out a wonderful brew from Brooklyn beer company. It's a recent addition to the wide selection of  homegrown beers offered, but this beer is sort of a specialty Brooklyn Local 2, a golden brown colored ale with flavors of citrus, just perfect with Memorial Day grilling. Sharing it, my cousin concurred, offering up her quickly finished glass to be re-filled!

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    The other specialty or novelty beer I found on the same shelf was called "Hebrew, The Chosen Beer."  Looking at the label, I thought it was a joke. On closer inspection, something stood out, the words "rye malt IPA.: Hmmm, speaking those words to myself, my ears peaked and the hair on the back of my neck stood up straight. Rye! This one I am tasting over the weekend. I have to be in the mood and maybe have to think of food appropriate to pair with this one?

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    So the other day after a trying shift at work, I stopped at Superiour Market, my local beer store. When I say "beer store," it should be pointed out that this store's windows are covered with all sorts of labels, some that I have never seen.

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    There are Belgian ales, fruit flavored, even one made with bananas and another with coffee! They also carry weisse biers from areas of Germany through which I have never passed, or at least I don't recall. There are also lots of American artisan beers, as well as French and Canadian and... you name it, they have it! This visit I limited myself to these two new brands, as my previous purchases were waiting at home for an indulgent weekend of good food and beer. So I spied a small bottle of beer called Cane and Ebel, with the interesting combination of Thai palm sugar and rye malt.

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    The other is Unibroue, a beer from Quebec that my brother told me about and swears it's a keeper, lots of yeast fermented in the bottom of the bottle!

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    I popped open this bottle after cooling it down, and was really pleased. It was sweet and reminded me of a beer I used to drink at a favorite beer pub, years ago. This would go so well with a onion tart. It's got a beautiful head and reddish color, almost smokey with a definite note of the rye I am happy to say.

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    The next few bottles I will open and try with some notes,suggestions for pairing perhaps? Beer is an old friend. Like wine, it's full of depth, sometimes maligned and misunderstood, but it's a drink that hearkens back to our early days as humans, cracked grain, a little water and heat, fermentation! It's magic.

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    Oh and please don't drink and drive, that is just stupid!

    Schrotbrot, fein, mittel und gross!

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    Given my previous tribulations with rye, any reader of this blog must know that I'm not the kind of baker to accept defeat in the face of adversity, especially in my search for wholesome German breads. 

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    While not fortunate with all results, I still can't throw in the towel. There are too many deep flavored breads, whether with whole rye, cracked meal, vollkorn as they are named. These are whole grain loaves with only the grain and occasional additions of nuts or seed held together by nothing more then the paste made from a finer milling of grain and water. Sort of like cement, but with a lighter aspect!

    In my quest for the perfect bread, I have found so many different variations of well known loaves from the German speaking lands, including Switzerland, Germany, Austria. The language in each of these particular places are common but, like the breads, vary in colloquial jargon as well. So when I try to use whatever means at my disposal to make a loaf of rye or spelt, it's a bit like deciphering the Rosetta stone! Thankfully I can wander over to Nil's site. He's is always a good guide for any sort of bread.Thankfully he has translated recipes I can't understand, and occasionally even sends me some awesome looking bread. Recently, it was a schwarzbrot, which is one I aim to bake, myself. But this loaf, (in the picture above), was one Nil's adapted from Maggie Glezer's book, Artisan baking in America. It's his adaption of a schrotbrot, a grain bread with some added seeds. My dilemma is the ingredients, and how we can decipher the grades or types.

    Some definitions: My own humble efforts with bad translating tools available.

    Schrot: pellet, grain, cracked grain

    Fein: finely ground grain

    Mittel: a coarser or middle cracked grain

    Gross: Large, cracked grain

    So this mystery isn't answered, yet! I am still seeking advice and knowledge regarding these various types from all sources, googled or even e-mailed in by hopefully someone knowledgable in milled rye.

    For example:

    Roggen/ Rye: Fill in some of the blanks!

    Roggen geschnitten =cuts

    Roggenflocken = Rolledflakes,

    Roggenganzkorn

    Roggenkleie =Bran

    Roggenmehl 2500

    Roggenmehl 500

    Roggenmehl 960

    Roggenquetschkorn

    Roggenvollkornschrot fein

    Roggenvollkornschrot grob

    Roggenvollkornschrot mittel

    Roggenvollmehl

     Roggenganzkorn
     

    Roggenmehl 2500

     Roggenmehl 960

     Roggenschrot extra grob

     Roggenschrot fein

     Roggenschrot mittel

     Roggenvollmehl= whole grain flour

    It's not going to be easy, especially as the state that our milling process differs here in America. It's no wonder that German rye breads aren't commonly baked or found on many bakers shelves!
    If you're a German speaker, or a schrot loving home baker like me, give us a hand defining some of these mysterious terms. I am sure once we get some knowledge,we can start baking with a lot more ease and understanding!

    June 09, 2009

    Sprouting

    In just a few months I will be taking a Artisan baking course at SFBI. I signed on with the encouragement of fellow bloggers/bakers, MC and Susan. It wasn't hard after an interview I had recently with it's founder Michel Suas.


    So when I saw both Susan and MC making a sprouted wheat grain bread from a whole grain workshop they both attended, I really wanted to try it. A while back, I had tried a sprouted grain, rather unsuccessfully. It left me worried of the biological hazards I might hatch for failing to follow the steps word for word!

    I had seen the formula first via Susan's adaptation. Since then, I have been checking on MC's progress in workshops on her blog. When she finally posted the formula for her adaption of this recipe, MC posted her niece's version on her French language site. My French is just as bad as my German, so I asked her to post it in  English, and she did. Merci, MC!

    The recipes are almost the same, but I adapted from both bakers, switching back and forth on my browser. In the end I made my own changes. First, I didn't sprout wheat. Instead I used Kamut, a distant relative of modern wheat. In MC's nieces version she omited the fruits and nuts for caloric reasons. But you only live once, so I say go for the whole thing or nothing! 

    I used mixed berries, cherries, raisins, and pecans instead of walnuts, as in Susan's version, though I was leaning for almonds. In both recipes, there was either the option of using a fruit juice or molasses. Lacking juice, I used pomegranate molasses brought back from my trip in Istanbul, a gift from my host Dilara.  Instead of orange zest in Susan's, I added candied orange peel I had intended for a Easter bread but somehow missed baking. I also cut the recipe in half, to make to small loaves weighing at around 450g. Surely I will make the whole recipe the next time, as it's quickly disappearing!

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    Sprouted Kamut, with fruit and pecans:

    Based on Keith Giusto's Power bread, from Wild Yeast and Farine-MC's adaptions.

    300 g flour
    200 g ground sprouted kamut berries
    175 g water
    10 g salt (My scale isn't that accurate as the one Susan has!)
    30 g Pomergranate molasses
    100 g mature 125 %-hydration sourdough starter
     1 pc. of finley chopped candied orange zest (a must)
    65 g dried mixed fruit, (I had a bag of Trader Joes mixed berries)
    65 g coarsely chopped nuts (Pecans)
    boiling water (for dried fruits)

    My method was virtually the same as both Susan's and that of MC's niece, so I am being a bit lazy and not posting! Besides I am off to work and have no time, life of a chef! So go and check the respective posts, you will get better advice, I did!

    This is a wonderful bread; light, chewy, full of flavor. Good plain or with cheese and fig jam, foie gras, butter, anything!  Make it - that's an order!

    And it's going to Susan's  Friday episode of Yeast spotting!

    June 03, 2009

    Roggen, rye, segale, siegle, it's alive!

    My latest experiments in rye bread have been relatively good. I took out my notebooks from school and followed my archaic notes, going for a 70/30 percent rye-wheat combination loaf. Both my teachers, David Norman and Nick Greco had shared duties teaching us the different parts of the course. David was a numbers man, Nick a hands on baker. We would get formulas from the handbook, but most often got a more personal lesson, with each teachers own variations and experience filling in the blanks.

    This particular rye was sort of a generic test bread with which we fiddled to get the look and feel in differences and handling of rye and wheat. There also was a 50/50 combination , but I felt challenged with a higher percent of rye! The first loaf was miserable. My levain was a bit tired and wasn't sufficiently fermented so it gave no life to this waste basket specimen! Feeling a bit like I was getting snake eyes, I left my starter feed, bubbling for a good eight hours. Getting home after a long shift, I proceeded to make the dough. It's a quick rise; a bit of yeast for boost and the lively rye got it on its feet in no time. Actually the notes read "10 min first rise! Shape." I chose a loaf pan rather then a round banneton. Then I allowed it to rise for for about 35-40 minutes, in which time I  pre-heated my stove. By that time the loaf was peaking at a clip over the edges of the pan. I popped it into the oven with a slash and spray! What a emerged was a light and lovely loaf.
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    My next bread was a formula from our Italian bread section at school, a pane di segale con pancetta. Literally a rye with pancetta. On my visits to Arthur Ave. in the Bronx, I had seen a loaf of this bread displayed in a window of a now shuttered bakery. It's a rustic rye, with a 85 percent hydrated wheat biga, studded with pancetta which I slightly cooked. It's enriched with a bit of olive oil. Though I never made this in class, the idea of fatty pork in a rye loaf, well what can I say, sounded too good to pass up!

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    Rye is, and has been, a mystery to me, but knowing it and eating it as much as I do, I find it even more peculiar that it's not being baked here by more bakeries and bakers. Most of my references for recipes come from Germany, Switzerland and France, where it is celebrated. The most difficult part is finding the various grain, chops, meals, and flours for the various formulas. That makes it especially hard to bake the same sort of loaf, but I won't give up that easily! These are my first steps. Now to translate the various books and formulas, I have to understand the mystery of rye.

    This post I will enter for the one year anniversary of Yeast Spotting. Susan of wild yeast shares the various her venue with all who bake, a noble cause!